Cleopatra’s Needle, Puerto Princesa City: Travel Guide and Short Story
Imagine waking up on a crisp Saturday morning atop Cleopatra’s Needle, the third-highest mountain in Palawan. As the sun peeks over the hills, casting a breathtaking sunrise over the Sulu Sea, and a surreal pink moon descends toward St. Paul Mountain and Ulugan Bay, you know you’re experiencing a once-in-a-lifetime privilege. These are the mountain memories that will forever hold a special place in my heart. Cleopatra’s Needle, with its mossy canopy, enchanting rivers, and diverse wildlife, is a treasure that we must protect for future generations. Join me as I narrate our exhilarating climb, share essential tips on preparation, suggest an ideal itinerary, and provide insights into the cost of this extraordinary trek.
Here’s my narrative of our climb, the guides on how to prepare, the suggested itinerary and costing.
The Trail Story: Trekking Experience
When hiking up the Puyos or Cleopatra’s needle Critical Habitat (1,593 MaSL, 9/9 difficulty level) hikers have a choice of doing it for three or four days, back trail, or traverse – as for our team composed of my friends Judd, Omo, Riz, Kuya IJ and Joan and my cousin, Chicoi, we opted for a 4-day back trail to this protected critical habitat.
Day One: Setting Off
Our adventure began in the Batak village, nestled an hour away from the Batak Visitor Center in Tagnaya, Puerto Princesa City. Here, we were warmly welcomed by the Batak and Tagbanua communities. Our day kicked off with a simple yet hearty breakfast, preparing us for the challenges that lay ahead.
Our team, led by our guides turned into very good friends, Kuya Arnel and Kuya Lusito, set for a day full of river crossings towards the foot of the Puyos to gain an elevation of almost 400 MaSL.
Traversing Rivers and Gaining Elevation
The team threaded through rivers locals call Amanturunon, Riandakan, Silpan, Buragat, and Nagbidok, passing by small and big clear river lagoons, tugging protruding roots along deep cliffs, and jumping from rocks and boulders.
Each of us is carrying heavy hiking bags, the weight is getting unbearable as the day wears off and I personally look forward to every take fives and rest turning into short deep sleep below the canopy or beside the river.
Eight hours of walking, or more like jumping and running, took us to our emergency campsite near the river, where we safely sheltered during our first night in the jungle on Mt. Cleopatra.
Day Two: The Toughest Climb
Our second day was the hardest climb of my life so far. Our hike began on a sunny morning afoot the first of the three assault areas of Puyos. Without any gradual slope, we faced the 80-degree assault past the loose soil, moving rocks sans roots to pull our body up – we crawled our way up until breathing seemed impossible and rest was the only choice.
Upon reaching the area of thick and imposing almacigas, we steadily hiked up and slowly went down again to the second camp by 11:00 AM where the team cooked lunch and dinner and left at approximately 1:00 PM to tackle the second assault.
Conquering Steep Terrain
The second assault was a short intensive hike towards the last river where our team gathered our last share of water for the next 20 hours upon loading, we then braved the last, the steepest, and the longest of the three assaults, the one leading to the peak of Puyos, a three and a half hour battle of leg muscle, shoulder strength, deep breaths, and sheer will to not sleep along the trail that day.
Glorious Summit Encounter
We passed by other Palaweño hikers along the trail from the other side of the mountain and gave them our portion of water enough for them to reach the next source and continue our goal towards the summit. I intentionally walked far from my teammates to just be with the forest during the last hour of the hike – to be alone in my thoughts in the middle of my dream climb, to immerse myself with nature and appreciate everything that we Palaweños are gifted with. It was worth it, I also realized how blessed we are for having leaders and local advocates who protect our island to the best that they can so that we can still enjoy and cherish this man and biosphere reserve. Plus, I also realized that I can read trails now, not to brag though.
After 9 hours and 30 minutes of walking, running, crawling, and cursing (kinda), we reached mossy trees hovering above gesturing the peak, the fog then silently covered the canopy and we were welcomed by the small peak of Puyos, Cleopatra’s Needle Critical Habitat, sea of clouds hiding everything down below, sunset peeking through the west, cold air sweeping playing tug with our sweat-drenched hair – it was a glorious summit encounter.
We built a camp and spent a sleepless cold night right at the peak, moon visible from where I slept, fog creeping through our makeshift shelter – but then the morning came and the sun rose as the moon set, the mountains of Puerto Princesa from east to west, north, and south, peacefully spread before our eyes – what a sight, what a delightful dream.
Days Three and Four: Descent and Return
Our days three and four were spent with slow, knee-testing descent towards the river, camping, enjoying the cold clear waters, chanting songs from Fraulein to Hawak Kamay with Kuya Arnel, deep psychology and life talks, hitchhiking a truck back to the city, halo-halo and chill dinner with Kuya Marvin.
Conclusion
In conclusion, our trek to Cleopatra’s Needle in Palawan was not just an expedition; it was a transformative experience. As the sun rose, revealing the vastness of Puerto Princesa’s mountainous landscape, we realized the significance of preserving this precious biosphere reserve. Our adventure had brought us closer to nature and deepened our appreciation for Palawan’s unique beauty.
Notes
Guys, please follow the principle of LEAVE NO TRACE, also avoid the SINGLE USE PLASTICS, not only in the mountains but in our daily choices. This blog is published in the hope that we all come together to protect the CLEOPATRA’S NEEDLE CRITICAL HABITAT.
Thank you, Judd, Mo, Riz, Kuya IJ, Joan, and Chicoi – I cannot imagine going on this climb without you and most importantly – Thank you Ma, for convincing Papa to allow me to climb this on Holy Week.
Happy trails, everyone!